![]() Theoretically be able to get full 360 degree coverage with 6 photographs 60 degrees apart, but 8 is usually better in practice. The only wide-angle lens I have is the Canon 10-22mm which is equivalent to a 16-35mm lens on a full-frame 35mm camera. ![]() The following photos show a Canon 400D with a 10-22mm wide lens fitted onto the panoramic tripod mounted in various positions. The tripod was calibrated and little marks were engraved into the aluminium using a razor blade. The same principle applies to all panoramic heads including this one. This webpage has a good explanation of the steps required to adjust the forward and back slider. The forward-backward slider must be adjusted so that the nodal point of the lens lies directly above the centre of rotation of the tripod. This can be aligned just by looking or using a plumbline. The bottom slider is adjusted so that the centre of the lens lies directly in line with the centre of rotation of the tripod. There are only two slider bars to adjust: The bottom left-right adjust and the top foward-back adjust. A HDPE plastic sheet was milled to fit on the arm perfectly and allows a bit more purchase for the base of the camera to connect to the tripod arm.Ĭalibration of the panoramic tripod head is straightforward. Finally, the forward-backward adjust slot was milled in and a custom made knob was spun out of a large aluminium rod and a secured to a bolt via a set screw. Secondary holes were milled into the arm and a screw is used to adjust the tilt of the arm. The top arm is connected via a large screw. Slots for the bottom wooden collar were milled, with a bolt going through the slot and held down via a wing nut. To connect them, a 90 degree bar was cut, holes were tapped into it, and then two pieces of aluminium were screwed on. The main body of the tripod head was constructed out of 3 bars ofĪluminium which I cut out from a piece of junk sheet. This took a few hours of one afternoon at the workshop. After a quick browse at theĪvailable materials, a sketch was drawn up and construction began. Machinability, durability and availability. Aluminium was chosen as the primary material due to it's ease of Out above, the actual construction was limited by the raw materials at While the design was guided by the requirements I set TheĪvailable tools include a commercial sized milling machine, a lathe, and various saws and hand tools along with a pile of junk aluminium sheets, bars, and other materials. It was my first time working at this workshop. Adjustable to fit different cameras and lenses.Reasonably well made (limited to scrap material at the workshop).With the commercial designs in mind, I set for the following design goals for the construction. I browsed a few of the more popular online panoramic tripod headsĪvailable to get an idea of how I would be able to make my own tripod head. This page documents the design process, construction, calibration and importantly, results. Having discovered a workshopĪvailable for use in my school, and inspired by several amateur home-built pano heads, I decided to get to work and build one myself. However, most of them are prohibitively expensive. There are many commercially available panoramic tripod attachments which screw onto your existing tripod. In order toĪchieve this, a panoramic tripod is required, which allows for accurate placement of the camera about its nodal point and also to allow smooth motion and For panoramas which include a lot of foreground, taking photographs about the nodal point is even more critical to reduce parallax errors which can result in images which are difficult to stich together. The actual position varies for different lenses and camera setups. etc.), and often lies somewhere within the lens. This point called the nodal point (but there is also some confusion with it being also called theĮntrance pupil. When taking panoramic pictures, a way of rotating the camera about the point of zero-parallax is required for seamless Use your mouse to navigate scrollwheel to zoom in and out.
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